Rivers of Africa

 

Itinerary 

17 April - Tuuthebe Lodge

18-21 April - Mogotho Camp (Khwai)

22-25 April Mubala Camp (Zambezi)

26 April - Ngepi Camp (Okovango)

27 April - Tsodilo Hills

28 April-2 May - Guma Lagoon (Okovango)

3 May - Kalahari Rest Lodge

4 May - Home

On this trip, we will be a convoy of two vehicles exploring many of the beautiful rivers of Africa, 8 in fact, with some fishing along the way. In 2011, we toured the Zambezi region (formerly known as the Caprivi Strip) and also did some fishing on the Kwando and Zambezi rivers, but had limited success. My brother has since been dreaming of going back and catch the illusive, mighty, tiger fish of Africa. 

Therefore, this trip is for you Ruan. 

The preparation for this trip has been significantly longer and harder than previous trips. I decided to make some upgrades to the Hilux and all the hard work paid dividends. Upgrades included a frontrunner tray slide with a water tank and 12v water pump fitted. Also upgraded the battery box to a new frontrunner unit with four usb ports included. A gas bottle is also fitted in a bracket, with the fridge back left and it is so much better working the fridge when the slide is fully extended. Gone are the days of having to stretch inside the canopy to get a cold one. 

Phase two of the upgrades involved plenty manual labour. I have always seen myself as someone with two left hands and not very practical when it comes to making anything. But after all attempts to find a reputable company to help me, I had no other choice but to do it myself, with some help of course. 

I built a custom drawer to be fitted back right on the slide which includes a motion sensor light that comes on when you open the drawer. Then with some help from a very friendly, short old lady named Audrey who has serious welding skills, we built a custom elevated deck in the top half of the canopy, thus dividing the cab in two with the slide and everything fitting nicely in the bottom. After covering the deck with plywood and carpet, I built two cabinets at the back half of both sides of the canopy. One housing a complete kitchen with everything I need, and the other for all my camping gear. The front half houses all the tents, chairs and stretchers. 

After everything was completed, I started to pack my gear and quickly realized that it was going to be a challenge to get everything in. On this trip, we had to take the fishing gear as well. So another plan had to be made. A quick phone call to my contact at frontrunner and a slimline II roof rack was fitted to the cab of the Hilux. And it looks great. 

Here are some of the upgrades:

 

Special shout out has to go to my good friend Michael, a man with two right hands. Very practical and without his help (and garage and tools) this probably would not have been possible. And surely would not have looked this good. Thank you!

The final and probably my favourite upgrade was fitting new BF Goodrich KO2 tyres. On my previous Hilux, I had two sets before it was stolen. I did about 70 000 km with them without a single problem. Less can be said about the Bridgestone duelers that came with the new Hilux. Four slow punctures and two replacements in about the same amount of kms. I know other people like them, but this has been my experience and opinion of them. And how good does these bad boys look?

 

Day 1

After months of preparation, the day of departure has finally arrived with great excitement. It is about 720km to reach Tuuthebe and not much happening on the way. Only challenge of the day will be the border crossing at Pars Halt. I really like Pars Halt and have used it many times in the past. Only change this time round is the issue with meat. Red meat in particular but as my parents have found out 6 days earlier, poultry miraculously also made the banned list. 

Now, we did all our research and I even called the director of veterinary services to confirm the situation, so we had no red meat. We arranged with Beef Boys in Maun to collect from them in Maun and then they would also deliver the rest of our order to Guma Lagoon when we get there. Therefore, we hid the little poultry meat we had, crossed the Limpopo River (1st) and went through the border without too much hassle. The rest of the day was uneventful and after filling up with diesel in Lethlakane we arrived at the Lodge and set up a basic camp, had a nice braai (first of many) and went to bed. 

 

Day 2

We got up early and quickly broke camp to get on our way because today was going to be a long day. Not necessarily in terms of kilometres but a lot had to be done before we get to Mogotho. We had to get to Maun first and stock up on diesel and supplies. Most importantly collecting the meat. On our way to Maun, we crossed the Boteti River (2nd) a couple of times. Maun was also the rendezvous point to meet up with the parents who spent the previous 6 nights in Central Kalahari. They took the short cut via the cutline past Kuke Corner and also made good time to reach Maun around 12am. After stocking up with the necessities, and meeting up with the parents in Woolworths (easiest place to find my mom, even in Africa) we crossed the Thamalakane River (3rd) and made our way north, destination, the Khwai River. 

 The first section north of Maun is your typical African driving. It was still tar and plenty villages with speed limits. After a while, the tar turned to gravel so we stopped to deflate the tyres. 

 

As we drove further on what was a nice gravel road, I started to get that feeling that you are now entering into a special wilderness area. Moremi and the Delta area is one of the highlights of this trip and I could not wait to experience the magic of this place.

We made good progress, reached the Khwai River (4th) around 5pm, and started looking for our campsite. The next hour was going to be interesting but also frustrating. My dad had some tips about which campsites were best and I reserved nr 7. Unlucky nr 7. We followed the campsite numbers and used the GPS with tracks for Africa but just could not find the campsite. At the beginning of the search, I drove into what looked like a campsite but was not sure, and we could not see a nr so we continued searching. We probably drove in a circle three times and consulted many other campers and after more than an hour and almost deciding on camping on other sites, I had one last drive to where we thought it might be and surely, there it was. The invisible nr 7 sign, lying on the ground beneath a bush. 

We called the parents over the radio and started setting up camp. The signs of wildlife was everywhere with massive elephant tracks all over the campsite. It is never nice to set up camp in the dark after arriving at an unfamiliar place, but with good lights we managed to get it done and had a late braai. What was great was the fact that it was full moon and even late at night, we could sit around the campfire with no lights and still see some distance into the bush. It was a late night but a great day, tomorrow will be a late morning and chill day in camp. 

Day 3

 

A beautiful morning greeted us as we got up much later than the previous two days. It was good to get some rest and we lazily sat around enjoying a coffee, watching some impala in the distance. There is no plans for today, just enjoy this amazing place. Our campsite had no less than 13 camelthorn trees providing an abundance of shade. 

We had the sun panels out early making sure we manage the batteries and just as we were about to make brunch, a game viewer rudely drove into our campsite. Or that was our initial feeling until the driver told us there are lions down by the river. We did not think twice and quickly got in the vehicles and made our way down to the river. It did not take long to find them, all resting in or next to a bush and we managed to get quite close to them. Took a few photos and then decided to drive a little further down the river, and then returned to camp to enjoy brunch. This was not going to be the last time we see these lions. 

 

 

The rest of the day was spent as planned, doing as little as possible before making a fire for another great evening braai. We were treated to a magnificent moonrise around 8pm and after dinner got the whisky out and just enjoyed being here. I always treat myself with something special and this time it was a bottle of Laphroaig's finest 10 year old whisky. What is brilliant about this place is that even though you are in a public area, you are surrounded by wildlife, and with all these camelthorn trees around there is an abundance of fire wood to collect and burn long into the night while enjoying the sounds of the African night. 

 

 

Day 4

Monumental day for Ruan and I, this will be our first time in Moremi Game Reserve. Another early morning and a stunning sunrise greeted us before setting off.

 

 

We quickly stopped at the refuse dump site and got out to throw the garbage away. There was a small structure that is supposed to be a new ablution but not yet in working order. My dad walked up to it to take a closer look before we set off again. 

We just started driving when my brother, with a laughing reaction, pointed to the lions we saw yesterday. We were probably not more than 50 meters away from them. There were outfitter staff collecting water from the river with the lions heading in their direction. We quickly made them aware before they nonchalantly walked back to their camp close by. This is one of the most amazing sightings I have ever seen of lions, watching them walk straight up to the car and cross the road between our vehicles. A big bull elephant was having his breakfast, not even taking note of the lions as they passed him. However we had a long day ahead of us, so we moved on. 

 

 

We did not get very far down the river before we found the rest of the pride, including a beautiful male. They were literally in the road and we had to go off road to get passed, taking stunning photos of these magnificent animals. They make you feel small and vulnerable when you see them that close. The safety of the Hilux being very comforting. 

 

After a few kilometres, we said goodbye to the parents who returned to camp, and did our first river crossing of the day. It must be said that it is a very dry year with water levels below normal. We saw some game on route to North Gate, even an Oribi, and you have to remember we were still outside a game reserve. 

 

Arriving at North Gate and getting to drive across one of these wood bridges I have seen so many times in photos was a truly special feeling.

 

 

We wanted to see all the camps that Moremi has to offer and after going through the gate, we turned into Khwai camp to have a look. A beautiful campsite on the Khwai river with plenty trees and clean ablutions. Definitely a place to visit. What makes the Botswana parks so different to South African parks is when you enter a South African park you leave civilization. When you enter a Botswana park, you left civilization long time ago when you left the last town. 

The roads in Moremi are not in great condition, but one shouldn’t expect better considering this area is sometimes very wet during the rainy season. Many ditches made for slow going and not the abundance of game I expected. The scenery however was spectacular!

After a while, we reached Xakanaxa gate and proceeded to the campsite. The best of all the camps in Moremi in my opinion right on the water. Not the same shade that Khwai camp offer but still good. 

We bought a very detailed map of Moremi at Tuuthebe and from Xakanaxa we decided to see how close we could get to Third Bridge camp following the seasonal roads. This was also the shortest route but again the going was slow. We made it to dead tree island, which offers an incredible view. 

From there we proceeded further and as we got close to Third Bridge, we were stopped in our tracks by a small stretch of water. It looked quite deep and I turned around to see if the right hand side might be a little easier. We were still contemplating where the best approach is when a land cruiser stopped on the opposite side. The man got out, had one look and had a crack. I was right, it was deep. Bonnet level deep. Nevertheless, being so close to the place we wanted to see the most and time running out, I engaged low range, switch on the diff lock, and went for it. In the middle of the crossing was a deep ditch that sent water over the bonnet and the back end bottomed out, but enough momentum got us through. Exhilarating experience!

 

We arrived at Third Bridge with the sun sitting high as we stopped at the ablutions for a quick comfort break. We then drove through the camp making notes of which campsites we thought were best, but Third Bridge was not what I expected. It was now almost 3 pm and we still had about 80km to cover over the rough terrain to get back to our camp. First things first though, a late lunch had to be had on one of the campsites under an enormous sausage tree. The cracker bread with tuna mayo and mussels with sweet chilli sauce on bacon kips were delicious.

 

 

Note to all, do not camp under a sausage tree. As we were enjoying lunch, a sausage seed fell from the tree right next to the Hilux. A meter to the right and I would have had a nice dent on the bonnet. 

It was after 3pm when we set off again and we knew this was going to be a hard drive back to camp. We drove over Third Bridge again and as we reached Fourth Bridge, it was closed. Ruan now behind the wheel turned off to the right, which looked like a detour, but we were stopped in our tracks once more. I got out to assess the situation and was just about to tell him to send it when he luckily found another route to avoid this. We probably would have been stuck had we tried. We were treated to another lion sighting on our way out close to the gate, a single female laying in the open. 

Back at North Gate, the sun soon disappeared and big dark clouds filled the sky. We still had to fill up with water and made light work of it, putting it on the roof rack. What was a glorious sunny day is now a heavy raining day as we drove over the bridge and onto the service road. We made it back to a very wet camp with chairs being blown about. Luckily, the rain stopped and we were able to enjoy dinner under the stars once more. 

What an incredible day in Africa and a bucket list destination ticked. 

 

Day 5

A repeat of day 3 with the exception of getting the fishing gear ready, next stop will be the Zambezi. We got out of our tents long after sunrise and enjoyed another coffee and brunch before cracking out the gin and getting stuck into rigging the fishing gear. When you fish for Tigers, you need the strongest gear possible, so we put braid on all our reels.

 

A late afternoon booze cruise along the river saw us finding the lions once more. What was very funny though was a group of German tourists sitting in their hired 4x4s all parked in a line on their campsite. We went back down to the river and filmed an elephant drinking water with the sun setting. On the way back we passed the Germans again, this time with their vehicles parked in a laar tighter than the Boere at Bloedrivier. They were not taking any chances...

 

Day 6

Massive day ahead of us as we get up before the crack of dawn. A new country awaits and to get there is going to prove more challenging than initially anticipated. Mogotho was an unbelievable experience but we had to say goodbye and head off just after 8am. We headed back to Mbabe village before turning left on to a two spoor sandy track into the Mopanies. Saw two magnificent kudu bulls that will make any hunter extremely proud if they could manage to hunt one of them.

 

We arrived at Mbabe gate and paid the park fees. A detailed discussion was necessary with the park staff about the road conditions and which route to take. Our options were the marsh road or the sand ridge road. I was dead keen on some sand driving but my dad not so much. The thought of the V6 towing a trailer through the 40km deep sand did not appeal to him or his fuel consumption. Nevertheless, before we could get there and make a decision, we arrived at the Savuti marsh not far from the gate. And were we amazed! We saw some elephants and stopped, and then in the distance we saw hundreds of wildebeests and zebras. Even saw a loan Roan antelope walking along on the marsh. What a spectacle.  

 

As we progressed along the track, we took some turns that we were not too sure about and before you knew it, the decision was made for us. We are doing the sand ridge. Before the trip started, I said that we probably will not do a lot of 4x4 driving, but today was going to be exactly that. It was a hot day and the sand was loose, but the going was not bad. We did however stop at some stage to deflate the tyres of the trailer a little more. 

 

 

Everything about Savuti surprised me and I thoroughly enjoyed being here. There were so many roads leading off to interesting places like viewpoints and bushman paintings. We all really wished we could stay there. Arriving at Savuti camp, we were even more surprised to hear that the campsites are not as expensive as we thought. Much cheaper than Moremi campsites. This includes the famous Linyanti camp where the parents had that epic lion encounter around their tents during a night in 199something. We also had a look at the Savuti ablution and campsite and vowed to return one day.

 

Some more consultations with the staff about the road conditions before we set off again. Take the road passed the airfield they said. Just outside the camp is a famous waterhole. Made famous by Derick and Beverly Joubert where they filmed so many of their wildlife documentaries. We found elephants and plenty zebra having a drink, some zebras also taking a swim. Just as we left we had a cocky little elephant came charging out the bush at us and then into the bush.

 

 

 

The landscapes kept changing as we made our way towards Ghoha gate with some more tricky sand dunes. Trickier due to the corrugation. Again, we discussed the roads to Ngoma and luckily, a game viewer arrived from Kasane advising us to take the cutline instead of the two-spoor track. In some places, we managed speeds of up to 50km/h but the sand kept keeping us honest. There is one long steep sand dune with three different options. It was fun, but not too difficult, even for my dad with the trailer who was now leading the way. We were now in Chobe with its magnificent mohembo bush. Breathe taking views all the way. 
 

We reached the tar and quickly stopped to re inflate the tyres. Time was now becoming a concern as the border closes at 6pm, and we still had a way to go. A herd of buffaloes in the middle of the road just before the turn-off did not help either. We reached the Botswana side, cleared customs and made it to the Namibia side with minutes to spare. As we drove through the last checkpoint it was already past 6pm. Only 80km more to go. Luckily this was all tar and in very good condition as we drove on into the night. It was great however to drive over the long bridge across the Chobe river (5th) as we did in 2011, the water levels however much lower than back then. 

Confession time. I had the wrong GPS coordinate programmed in our GPS’s. Bugger. The place we are heading to was what I thought was the former Kalizo lodge, now known as Mubala lodge after been taken over by Gondwana collections. Little did I know that they took over Island View as well and that the road to the old Kalizo lodge no longer exists? The GPS kept telling us to turn into the bush where there was not a road. We stopped and asked some locals who could not speak English whatsoever and another search for a camp began, this time in the dark. After what felt like a very long time (15 minutes) we luckily found the sign and turn off using our brand new led lenser torches. Not sure how we missed it the first time. However, we were very happy to arrive after 7pm and after checking in, picked a campsite and set up camp once more while the fire was burning for another late dinner. Needless to say that not many photos were taken during this time. Mosquitos also became a real issue, even late at night.

 

Great driving day through Africa on some of the best roads I have seen. Utterly enjoyed it but we were all glad to get into bed and enjoy a good night’s sleep. 

Tomorrow brings more adventures...



Day 7

We were greeted by another spectacular morning. Could this trip get any better? A day on the Zambezi River (6th) will soon answer that question.

Having arrived late the previous night, we were not sure how to go about booking our fishing excursions. Therefore, for day one we only booked a half day. What is nice about Mubala Camp though is that, when you book a half day trip you can leave at any time, and just spend 5-6 hours on the water before returning to camp. Needless to say, we were not up with the sparrows and only left after 8am. Now before you say anything, I know the early bird catches the worm, or the tiger fish, but we were on holiday after all.

 

You do not need to be rocket scientist to guess who caught the first tiger. Yip. Ruan. Moreover, a nice one at that weighing in just over 2kg, caught while trawling. It is sad however to report that the fish populations and their numbers are dwindling due to the over fishing of the locals from the Zambian side. They use nets, which they set across a channel and catch everything that swims up or down. They also do this under the cover of darkness knowing full well that it is illegal. The Namibian fisheries are doing whatever they can to ensure the sustainability of these species. A couple of years ago a good day on the water was 10-15 tigers with sizes up to 4-6kg, whereas now 1-4 per day with weights rarely past 4kg is the norm.

We definitely played our part and every fish caught on this trip were done on a strict catch and release policy with every single fish successfully released back into the rivers.

With temperatures now in the mid-thirties and very little wind to cool down, we were not too disappointed when Masule decided to head back. Moreover, what better place to return to and cap of a fantastic day on the water. Pure bliss just being here and enjoying this magical view.

A well-deserved ice-cold beer to celebrate catching the illusive tiger fish of Africa.

Day 8

With day one bringing moderate success, and with the knowledge of over fishing from the Zambian locals, we soon realised that efforts needs to be doubled if we were to walk away from this place without regret and having to bear another eight years longing to catch a reputable tiger fish.

 We also wanted the parents to experience the joy of being on a motor boat on the Zambezi again, and decided that my dad will join us in the morning and mom in the afternoon. Main focus in the morning will be fishing and then treat mom to some birding in the afternoon. We were very fortunate to have Masule as our guide. His knowledge of the river and the birds was mind-blowing. There was not a single bird he could not identify, neither by sight, nor by sound.

Need to point out at this time that, because we booked a full day fishing, lunch was included. A delicious hamburger and chips, delivered by boat, on the Zambezi...

Royalty status achieved!

Today was a special day for more reasons than one, it was Ruan’s birthday. Now can you imagine spending your birthday somewhere in Africa, on a boat, on the mighty Zambezi River, and then catching another good size tiger fish on drift bait? I mean, does it get any better than that?

The day promised so much after that early success, but the rest of the day did not deliver as expected. I really wanted my dad to catch a good size tiger fish to put the demons to bed of the "dog" he lost in 2011. It was not to be though, and a nice afternoon nap was at the order of the day as we sat off again for the afternoon's fishing.

The nightmares continues...

 

We finished the morning's fishing trawlling through a side channel, much narrower than the main stream, and had a lot of strikes without landing any. It was then an easy decision to go back and try the same in the afternoon, especially with the abunance of birds around.

 

 

Despite our best efforts, again, not much success in the afternoon.

 

 

The Zambezi River is one of those incredible places in the world where sunsets seems to be even more spectacular than you can imagine. We took so many photos and videos while drifting in silence, but it is not easy to capture the true essence of this place. Majestic...

 

It was a long day on the water, as you can clearly see on my facial expression. Not my finest moment and certainly not my best angle.

 

The bar had a very nice gin special called the happy hooker (not applicable to us) and was just the right thing to enjoy after today. The mosquitos again, back in full flight, as we returned to camp for Ruan's traditional fillet and mushroom sauce with paptert for his birthday feast. On a previous birthday occasion, we gave him a bottle of Ardbeg Uigeadail, which he saved until now. Good on you brother, and thank you for sharing, it is after all my favourite whisky distillery.

Day 9

We left the parents behind at camp to tend to some admin and cleaning tasks while Ruan and I had one last attempt at landing a big tiger fish.

My luck to date, non existent, blanking the first two days.

The campsites at Mubala Camp is out of this world with plenty luxury, much more than what we are used to. Each stand has its own ablution with shower, basin and toilet, along with outside stoep and wash up area. Lush green grass and massive trees makes for a perfect campsite. We were also incredibly fortunate to see a Schalow's Turaco the first afternoon in the tree above our campsite. Only found in the Zambezi Region of Namibia.

 

Two days fishing lay behind us as we board again early on day three and embark on what was going to be the most epic of all the days fishing on the Zambezi. After picking up bulldogs for bait, we set off once more, heading to the spots where we had success on previous excursions. Today will however be different, as we do not intend to return to camp for lunch, but instead push further upstream, all the way to Katima Mulilo. No lunch delivery today but the chef did make us two scrumptious pizzas and we took something else for a surprise later on.

Every day on the water thus far always had us either drift with three rods and another spinning rod with artificial lures. Alternatively, we would be trawling moving from one spot to another, always with one rod each in the water. Ruan did extensive research on what to bring and no expense was spared as we threw everything we had in order to land a monster.

After initial attempts on drift bait yielding no success, we proceeded to a spot at the starting point of Nambwe Island close to another lodge where the river made a natural drop off with small rapids. This time all three of us took to the spinning rods and had such a great time drifting over the rapids several times, flicking lures non stop.

Again, we put the rods away and with the sun now in all its glory high in the sky, it was time to take a break and find some shade. Masule slowly steered the boat along Nambwe Island, looking for a spot where we could anchor the boat and get on the island, and soon found the perfect spot where we made a fire for a lovely early afternoon braai. It was very surreal to sit on a remote island in Africa, enjoying a cold beer while braaing sirloin steak and chicken wings. A combination which will now forever in our family be known as a Nambwe.

Our final assault on these tigers was going to be in Katima Mulilo itself, just below the rapids near the bridge leading to Zambia. The river is very wide here with very active hippos on the Zambian side. We again drifted the area several times with drift bait and spinning with the fire tiger magnum rapala. Ruan had a big strike on his drift bait while facing backwards with the force nearly dislodging the rod from his hand, and the leader line snapping clean off. I then got the rapala stuck, the braid snapping again fairly quickly before I could loosen the drag. The feeling of despair fell over me as I sat down on the deck of the boat, only to be brought back to elation 2 minutes later as Masule, who was bringing in my rod to check my drift bait, hooked into a tiger. Finally! The fight didn’t last very long, but I finally had my Zambezi tiger. Incredible feeling, what a privilege.

After a few more attempts we decided to head downstream back to camp, trawling in some areas all while enjoying the sun setting over the Zambezi and listening to Geoffrey Oryeam’s The River on my phone. Hard to describe the peace and calmness that befalls you in a moment like this.

The rest of the trip was driven in near darkness with millions of insects hitting your everything. The K-Way gear, buffs, Oakleys and Rogue hat proving their worth. However, just before that; the sun setting one final time, ending what has been an unforgettable experience on arguably one of the world's mightiest and most beautiful rivers...

Day 10

Moving day once more as we travel through the Zambezi region all the way to Divundu and then down to Ngepi Camp on the banks of the Okovango river. First stop, Katima Mulilo for fuel and stocking up again on some supplies. Katima Mulilo is a busy little town on the border to Zambia, but a nice spar and liquor store filled the pantries and we soon were on the open road again. It is always nice to stop for lunch next to the road and the fresh buns with tuna mayo made for a good lunch.

The entire stretch through the Zambezi region is through the newly named Bwabatwa National Park, where as we learned later even had lions recently introduced. We were hoping to see some elephants too but I suppose with some sort of civilization close by, the chances were slim. Also along the route is some of the old military bases from the Border war and after we crossed the Kwando River (7th), where we stayed and fished in 2011, we decided to stop at the next one to see what has become of them. Omega base was the next on the route and Ruan and I went for a closer look. It was very disappointing to see this once powerful establishment now lay in ruins, turned into a village. Some bomb shelters and storage facilities remain, but the rest of the buildings were non-existent. Only foundations remained. 

Another stop for fuel (for the alcoholic V6) at Divundu, before we turned south and stopped at the well-known Popa Falls, a place we last visited in 1987. My dad reminiscing about days gone by while we enjoy an ice cold Heineken. 

From here, it was a short but interesting drive to reach our next destination, Ngepi Camp. It would have been great to meet the owners or whoever had the brilliant sense of humour building this camp along with the signs everywhere. You need a sense of humour when you build an elevated toilet, with a view, and then call it Poopa Falls. 

Being a stopover, we camped light on the banks of the Okovango River (8th) and I even decided to sleep in the hammock next to the Hilux. The campsites are small but cosy and we were pleasantly surprised by the nightlife, hearing a lot of hippos and elephants across the river. Great place to stop and relax. And I had a brilliant night's sleep in the Hammock.

 



 

Day 11

Today we head back to Botswana via the small Mohembo border post. Destination, UNESCO world heritage site, Tsodilo Hills. Long have I heard my dad talk about this place and today we get the opportunity to go camp there and experience the rich history it has to offer. But before we get there, another surprise lay await. 

 

I mentioned the Bwabatwa National Park yesterday and little did I know that it continued all the way down to the border post. This section is known as the Mahango region and it covers a small stretch of the Okovango River. Even with the utmost planning, it is good to be surprised sometimes. At first, we took the road to the west leading to a water whole where we were told we could find an abundance of game, but a lone elephant bull lead the welcoming committee and we soon headed back to the Okovango River. This had to be one of the most scenic routes I have driven in a long time and to get that close to the River that feeds the entire Okovango Delta was amazing. As we stopped at a picnic site next to a massive baobab tree, we also saw the endangered Wattled Crane, while enjoying another roadside lunch.

The border crossing back into Botswana has to be one of the smallest we have used and we were through in no time. More slow going travel through Africa as we passed Shakawe before turning South towards Tsodilo Hills. A short 30km, yet bumpy, gravel road through this flat desolate area was all that remained before we reached the majestic hills. It was incredible to see the hills rise in the distance as neared our destination. First the father hill, then the mother hill, with the child hill some distance further away. 

The campsites are rustic and basic, but has ablution facilities with warm water. Before Ruan and I started setting up camp we drove up to the museum at the foot of the mother hill to enquire about a hike. With all arrangements made and a true bushman guide organised for us, temperatures reached 39 as we headed back down to camp. There will be no hiking this afternoon! A cold beer in camp is more the order of the day. 

You cannot help get the feeling of total isolation while camping here considering, to the west lays Khaudom Game Reserve in Namibia so far in the distance with nothing but wilderness in between. I asked about wildlife in the area and after being told that leopard, hyena and wilddog roam the area, the thought of another night in the hammock soon disappeared. What did however happen, that still haunts us today, was two young bushmen girls approaching us through the bush. They were very shy and approached us so slowly that it looked like they were stalking us. Little did we know that they were only trying to sell handcrafted traditional bushmen jewelry. But with our stubborn Gauteng attitudes we just said no thank you, not interested, without thinking about it. Only fifteen minutes after they left it hit us, and we felt so ashamed. Part of these trips is to experience the cultures of Africa and we had squandered a perfect opportunity... 

Day 12

Another early morning and we quickly broke camp to head back up to the museum to embark on an epic hike around the mother hill on the Rhino trail. A hike of about five kilometers that will showcase some of the most pristine bushman paintings the world has ever seen. It is not a world heritage site for no reason. We did the trail anti clockwise as aposed to the normal route, it will be easier, they said. 

 
 
 

 

No one can blame me for not mentioning our guide by name. With a name we could hardly pronounce, I am not going to even try put it to pen. A small man in his eighties but with the strength and vigor as a teen. This man has lived in these caves for most of his life, sharing countless stories as we walked through some of the caves and showing us where he spent his time as a baby. It was an unbelievable experience as we stopped at the paintings along the way. Most memorable being the pengiun and whale, and Lauren’s panel. 

 
 

 

The last section, which would have been a good climb up the hill, is now a steep rocky climb down. Not too much of a challenge for most of us. But my mom, with a bad knee, had some difficulties going down. Hats of to you though mom for completing it, making the most of the opportunities life gives you. Proud of you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Tsodilo it will be a short drive to reach our next destination at Guma lagoon. Not much excitement until we reached the turn-off to Guma. From here it will be sand again. I was told by some that it is a tricky sand track and deep in many places. They weren’t kidding. 

As we hit the first stretch of sand, I got stuck!

First time ever that I got stuck while traveling in Africa. The 2,8 bar tyres obviously not helping. The track made a bend around a tree and before I knew it, I hit two massive bog holes covered with tree branches and hit the front bash plate. I think the branches was a sign not to proceed. First option, deflate the tyres. This proved to be enough and I managed to drive out without assistance. I guess it is as they say, your never stuck, just temporarily immobile. The Stofpad bash plate also holding up well with no damage. 

It was another great drive as we neared the lodge, neared the delta. More and more tree islands appeared and it was clear which areas would be totally covered in water during the wet season. But again, being a very dry year we soon completed the fifteen kilometers and arrived at Guma lagoon. What a gem!

After completing the formalities, meeting the incredibly friendly staff, we were taken to what is undoubtedly the most beautiful campsite I have ever seen. Just have a look at this beauty...

We took our time to set up camp, which was going to be home for the next three nights. Well that was the initial plan as we would go from Guma to Aha Hills and Gcwihaba Caves, but this place was special, I really wanted to spend more time here. After serious deliberations and confirmation from the lodge, we binned the trip to Aha and Gcwihaba and made this home for the next five nights. It must be noted that the mosquitoes were a handful at dusk and dawn. 

Day 13-17

Over the next couple of days we will do some more fishing, but with the added time, also just rest up and enjoy this unbelievable camp. It feels like you are camping on an island, in luxury with all your gear.

 

We would have done another two days back to back fishing, but as we learned from Mubala, it is very taxing on your body to be out in the sun for so long. The first day at Guma had to be a lazy one, then a full day’s fishing followed by another lazy camp day. The parents decided to head back a day earlier which will also then be our last day on the water. 

The fishing on the Okovango River is better in a way to the Zambezi River. It is quantity vs quality. We managed to land 15 smaller sized Tiger fish during our stay. Not the best time of the year either, aparantly the barble run in October/November is quite spectacular. 

Now this time round I managed to get the jump on Ruan. The DT6 fire tiger proved to be magic at one of the guide’s favorite spots. Not monsters, but with the light tackle, every bite was great fun. 

My old man also getting tight with a Tiger. Hope this helps to put the bad memories from 2011 to rest. 

 

Thoroughly enjoyed our day on the water. It is incredible to be on a boat traversing the channels of the Okovango Delta. Bird life also in abundance and I managed to add a few new ones to the life list. Our guide again full of knowledge and able to identify them in flight. 

 


 
 


 

Time for some more laziness...





Stunning sunrise on our final day of fishing...



Ruan soon caught up with me on quantity, and then landed some quality as well. Again catching the biggest Tiger at Guma. Fitting I would say, it is his trip after all. 

We stayed out the entire day again, only returning at dusk, with hamburgers for lunch. Luckily the boat on this day was smaller, but had a canopy that we could erect to block out the harshest heat. 

The scores were finally settled while trawling on the way back. Hooking into two more decent size Tigers made Ruan the clear and obvious champion. 

Day 18 & 19

The long journey hom started. It would take us two days to get back home, staying over at Kalahari Rest Lodge. We managed to get away early and the sand track was just as much fun as coming in. The rest of the road south also beautiful. 

Arriving at Kalahari Rest without a reservation saw us camping at an overflow site, next to the Oval cricket ground. No not the one in London, the bush version. Not bad but the cosy stands with their enclosures would have been nice. Similar to 2016, the temperature dropped rapidly on our last night. 

The final day had arrived and another border crossing lay await. No problems coming back into South Africa and as we drove along on the N4, I took some time to reflect on what has been one of the most memorable trips in my life. The privilege to travel through Africa. It is hard to explain, but if you are reading this now, I hope you also get the opportunity one day to experience the splender of Africa. 

May the roads take you to where the wild things are, and life is just beautiful...

Untill next time...