Ultimate Kgalagadi Off-Road Adventure

They say once you have felt the red sand of the Kalahari between your toes, you will always go back. I couldn’t agree more. The last time I had the privilege of visiting the amazing Kgalagadi national park was in 2019 on my Surprise Kgalagadi in May trip. I only had 2 nights in the park which was way too short. Lindie and I, who both dearly love all SANParks are trying to visit all of them together. To date we have done 10 of the 19 and nr 1 on the bucket list is undoubtedly the Kgalagadi. Lindie’s favorite, surprisingly is Golden Gate, because of the mountains, and I cannot wait to explore this one with her. 

This time we will be spending 13 nights in the park exploring it from the south all the way up to the north at unions end and then through the heart of the park to the west and back south again. The trip inside the park will be close to a thousand kilometers of which nearly half of it will be on two spoor wilderness tracks. We will be visiting all the major camps as well as camps like Bitterpan, Gharagab and Kalahari tented camp. But the highlight of the trip will surely be the Nossob 4x4 trail, which we did 21 years ago. 

Our convoy will consist of three vehicles and accompanying us will be my brother, Ruan, who has done many trips with me previously but this will be his second in his Toyota Fortuner, and again my parents in their V6 Toyota Hilux.

Our itinerary will be:

Twee Rivieren Camp

Nossob 4x4 Trail

Nossob Camp

Gharagab Wilderness Camp

Nossob Camp

Bitterpan Wilderness Camp

Mata-Mata Camp

Kalahari Tented Campe

Day 1

Saturday, 18 February 2023, 4 am. The day we have all been eagerly waiting for has finally arrived. A very long drive stares us in the face like an old dagga boy. This will be another epic drive in Africa. We finally got on the road just after 5 am due to some more rainy conditions and some final checks on tyre pressures. The rain made for tricky driving, especially with pot holes along the N14, all the way to Vryburg, before finally subsiding and clear skies looked over us for the rest of the way. After turning north at Kuruman and following the road past Tswalu, Lindie and I couldn’t help think about how close we were to Klein Jan. Another big dream of ours. Perhaps another day!

The big challenge of the day was always going to be the 147 km gravel from Van Zylsrus to Askham, but after deflating tyres and a pleasant surprise on the condition of the road, we thoroughly enjoyed the scenery all the way to Askham. Quick refuel and stocking up on firewood, we tacled the last 75km to Twee Rivieren. 

Words cannot describe the feeling when you arrive at Twee Rivieren after such a long day. To see that reception with the bronze gemsbok statues, just whisper’s to your soul. You know you have arrived at a very special place!

Arriving after 5 pm, campsites were slim pickings but we found two sites that would be ok for the night. In the morning we will scout other options as they become available. 

Big first day on this adventure and we’re all looking forward to a good rest day before tackling the Nossob trail on Monday…

Day 2

Lindie and I woke up at the crack of dawn as the sun shone through the window of the roof top tent. Excitement still pumping in our hearts, we made a cup of coffee and enjoyed the morning sounds while watching the sunrise. 

As we sat around drinking in the scenery, we soon realized how quickly people were breaking up camp and moving on. We started eyeing up possible campsites, the sun was already scorching at our current site. Ruan also joined us for coffee and after some sites opened up, we decided to move our camp to better shaded spots. Ruan just got in his Fortuner and drove to the sites we wanted, as his set up was quite minimalistic and easy. I simply raised the ladder of the roof top tent and drove in low range to our new site. 

The rest of the day was spent getting ready for the Nossob 4x4 trail, fitting seed nets etc. I haven’t mentioned the heat so far, the mercury was pushing 40 most of the time during the day. Luckily, the pool at Twee Rivieren was a treat. We did, however, plan to do the Leeuwdril trail with the Fortuner only, which we embarked on later in the afternoon. The trail is pricey for the distance you can travel, but was still enjoyable. Only three small dunes barely raised the heart beat, but it was still good fun. 

What was, however, exhilarating was something completely different! One of the things we said we would love to see is rain or a thunderstorm in the Kalahari, and as we neared the end of the trail on the Twee Rivieren Mata-Mata road, we could see rain in the distance. After completing the trail we decided to head north and chase the rain, and managed to drive through some of it! It was amazing to put my hand out the window and feel the raindrops… So special considering the amount of rain this place receives in a year. 

On the menu for the evening was my famous porkneck curry before we sat quietly around the fire with a whisky, listening to the night sounds of Africa. We finally nestled in the roof top tent for a good night’s rest. 

Tomorrow will bring even more excitement. 

Day 3

It’s the start of the Nossob 4x4 trail!

A day so eagerly anticipated by all of us. Luckily also,  a very easy start to the morning as we will only start at 10:00, as informed by reception. A few last minute checks and shopping after breaking up camp and as 10:00 approached us, Lindie and I saw our guide arrive as we were packing the fridge with the last minute supplies. But, before we could get into that, we heard over the radio Ruan was told of lions catching an Oryx the previous night at the hide, so we had to go have a look first! It was a quick “hi and bye” with Thys as we headed to what would be the first of many lion sightings. 

Not the best of lion sightings, and at the time I thought to myself: “wow,  at least Lindie has seen some Kalahari lions now”, also thinking that it might be the last lions we see on this trip. It was only the beginning…

We descended the hide down the sand dune it’s built on and made our way down to reception. Permits collected, we again met with Thys Burger, our guide for this trail. An older man in his early sixties, but a man we will soon discover has an incredible wealth of knowledge and experience, as well as a tremendous passion for the Kalahari. After sorting out the paper work and radio comms, we finally set off on the Nossob 4x4 trail. I mentioned earlier that it is something we as a family did 21 years ago, and I felt a bit sad that my older brother and only sister could not join us again on this adventure. But to share this with Lindie is even more special for me. 

The trail starts of on the main road towards Nossob before turning left onto a two spoor wilderness trail. We saw some game and birdlife along the way with Thys always pointing them out as he lead the way. We soon reached the turnoff and just as we were out of sight from the main road, Thys pulled up and we got out for the first of many ventures into the veld. All SANParks just has this aura about them where there are dangerous animals around, but you are allowed to get out of your vehicle and explore the veld. SANParks also does not take your safety lightly and Thys always gets out with his trusty R1, semi automatic rifle, slinging it over his shoulder. 

As one look at the Kalahari you see this barren, desolate place, but if you look closer, there is so much more to see. And that is the brilliance of the Nossob 4x4 trail as Thys started teaching us all about the plants with beautiful flowers. So many different colors of flowers you don’t see if you don’t look closer. It would set the tone for the rest of the tour. 

The trail itself meanders through what is called dune streets and then over a dune into a new dune street. Some dunes are more challenging than others but non proved too difficult if you kept your momentum up. My old man only once had to take a second attempt on a dune. We stopped for lunch underneath a massive Witgat tree and enjoyed hotdogs. The temperature in the sun was easily over 40, but in the shade with a little breeze it was quite pleasant. 

We reached our campsite for the first night called Witgat. A lovely raised campsite with clean sand overlooking a man made waterhole. The campsites all have a long drop toilet and bush shower. We had to take our own water for everything and enjoyed a lovely bush shower as the sun sets followed by a lovely braai. It was incredible to sit around the fire and listen to the stories Thys told while also listening to the sounds of the African night. Lindie and I heard lions roaring in the night but they were far away. 

Day 4

Everyone woke up not too early as we were only setting off at 9:00. A relaxed morning with coffee and a light breakfast and we were on our way. 

We completed the loop that Witgat campsite is on and headed further north. It was more of the same from dune street to dune street over more dunes. The scenery as well remained breathtaking. I also gave Lindie the opportunity to drive today, which she aced and thoroughly enjoyed. 





Going over the dunes is some feeling. You accelerate up the dune riding the corrugation to keep your momentum. As you reach the crest of the dune you just see blue sky and have no idea what is on the other side. You are completely blind and just hope your wheels are still in the tracks. Lindie soon experienced this and asked me to take some photos of the experience. It wasn’t easy though but I gave it a go. Don’t think the photos will do justice to the experience…

There were several more discussions along the way with Thys parting more and more wisdom of the Park with us. 

We stopped again for lunch in a shaded area for a lovely spread of delicacies. Our destination for tonight is a campsite called Rosyntjiebos which we reached around 16:30. With little shade available, we only got the chairs out and sat around relaxing in the little shade available waiting for the heat to subside. One thing that quickly became very clear is that we will be experiencing some of the most epic sunsets that only the Kalahari can provide. This sunset was simply magnificent!

Most of us enjoyed a bush shower before the sun set but I decided to shower later with my new Alva gas geyser. It worked a charm the night before but failed to ignite tonight. Very frustrating and we wasted a lot of water trying to shower. Very disappointing. 

Nevertheless, we enjoyed another delicious dinner before settling in for the night. No lion roars tonight. 

Day 5

A sunrise as magnificent as the sunset last night greeted us as we enjoyed a morning coffee before slowly breaking camp and setting off for another epic day in Africa. 

On the agenda today is Big Bertha. The biggest dune of the entire trail and we were all very excited to tackle this challenge. But before setting off, Thys shared more wonderful insights on the local vegetation and how the bushmen used them. For them, the tsama melon was a pot. They would cut open the top and placed their meat inside and then put it on the fire. The juices of the melon then providing flavor and juiciness to the meat. 

The trail began the same as yesterday with a few easy dunes and stopping every now and again for more discussions. Before long, we reached the pinnacle of our 4x4 driving experience. 

Big Bertha!

Most dunes we have done so far is rather short, not too steep, and only some had bad corrugation. And I know there are bigger, higher, steeper dunes in Namibia and Mozambique, but this one brings its own challenge. You start off accelerating as hard as you can around what feels like a never ending bend with the inclination increasing all the time over serious corrugation which provides very little traction until you near the summit where the trail winds sharply to the left and then to the right and the left again through soft sand and then over the final even steeper crest. 

First up, the V6. My old man gave it a go but ended up short. And had to reverse all the way back down. Not much fun and tough on the ego. Second attempt! Now you can hear the revs. Now you can hear that V6 bellowing as it blasted over the corrugation to make it to the top and over. Well done dad. 

Next up, the Fortuner on steroids. Ruan just sent it, and apart from a gear change to third halfway up which I thought, uh oh, he flew up and over. Like that was nothing. 

Last but not least, me and Lindie in the beloved Hilux. How hard can this be? 

First attempt.

I set off and quickly changed to second thinking I could make up the revs and speed around that never ending bend. But soon realized we will never make it. Even told Lindie halfway up we are not going to make it and soon aborted. Good thing though is the rest of the group thought that was me just having a sighter. Not a real attempt. Yeah right. Well the cat is out of the bag now I guess. 

Second attempt?

This time I was not messing about. Smashed the revs in first gear before hitting second. I fought every instinct to change to third with the revs over four thousand. I kept watching the speed on the GPS to get to 60km/h. I made it to the final winding bit and as I hit the final steep crest I ran out of momentum and stopped a meter short. Brutal on the ego!

Third attempt!!!

I gave myself a longer run up and gave it everything. Even switched the electronic throttle controller to the max to help. As I reached the soft sandy windy bit I got the feeling we are not going to make it again. But with the last bit of momentum we had, we just managed to get over the crest. 

Relief!

I don’t think there is more I could have done had we not made it this last attempt. I would have had to take the escape road. Or the pink road as Thys called it. Or the sissy road. Something not very manly. Not good! And to let it sink in a bit longer, my mom decided she wanted to have a go in the Fortuner, with Ruan, and again that thing just flew up that dune. I think she might had to brake a bit at the end to avoid some air time. 

Great fun was had by all, and unfortunately we only took videos, not even one photo. Will share the video with some one day. 

As we reached mid day and the temperatures sky high, we stopped for another incredible lunch in the shade overlooking a forming pan. 

Somewhere on this table above is a salmon paste that is about to appear into the abyss of what is the V6 Hilux. More on that later…







We reached our final campsite of the trail by late afternoon. A campsite called Swartbas, named after the big trees we camped under. Apart from the view at Witgat, this one was the best. And with tents all set up and a fire going, we noticed this amazing phenomenon. Jupiter and Venus close to each other with the moon in the middle. Incredible once in a life time experience and what a place to see it, the Kalahari!

We had an amazing final dinner on the trail with a friendly jackal passing through camp while still enjoying the night sky before settling in for the night. 

During the night, Lindie and I both woke up instantaneously, lions roaring! They were not too far away and we could clearly hear them moving closer. Some roars turned to growling which led me to think that males were fighting. Thys asked after Witgat that we wake him if we hear lions, which I did. I called out to him in his roof top tent from ours but only ended up waking up everyone else except Thys. So we all went for a 4am bathroom break and crawled back into our cozy beds and enjoyed the rest of what will be the final morning of our trail. 

While lions roar nearby…

Day 6

We have now adjusted beautifully to this easy, late morning rise and breaking up camp. Another spectacular Kalahari morning for our final stint of the trail. 





This part of the park had noticeably more rain and was less affected by the wild fires from the previous year. 



As we had our final trail lunch, it was also time to say goodbye to Thys as he had a long way to travel that day. 

The man, the legend! You will always be remembered by all of us. I hope many can still enjoy this experience with him for years to come!







After saying goodbye we soon joined the main Nossob road and headed north quickly to visit Polentswa waterhole, a place we know very well, having stayed at Polentswa in the past. We then made our way back down to Nossob, all at our own pace and just enjoying the beauty of the Nossob River valley. 

We arrived at Nossob camp early afternoon and after completing the formalities we moved to the day visitors area. That’s right, the day visitors area. SANParks built a dedicated ablution facility for people completing the trail while camping in the day visitors area. Very clever indeed. So there is no rush to get a campsite or worry that you won’t have accommodation after the trail, as Nossob is often fully booked. We were handed a key after checking in and had sole access to the facilities and the whole day visitors area to ourselves. 

Later on, Lindie heard there were lions at the famous Nossob hide, so we went to see more lions. Safe to say these ones were a lot closer…

We had another pleasant dinner and after another late evening visit to the hide, lions gone, we settled in for the night. 

The weather had changed today vs the first week or so and that evening in the roof top tent was sweltering hot. The second week of the trip was going to be scorching hot. And we already thought the first week was hot. 

Day 7

Today will be a significant day for me and Lindie as we make our way to the most Northern camp in the park, Gharagab. But before that we will stop at Union’s end. This is the spot where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet. Previously we have been in Mapungubwe for my birthday at the confluence decks where Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa meet. And also on our engaged in Kruger trip we were at Crook’s Corner, where Zimbabwe, Mozambique and South Africa meet. Exciting day awaits. 

We were all up earlier than what we have been used to as we wanted to be at Gharagab as early as possible to make the most of the camp. We had 3 of the 4 chalets thanks to a late cancellation a week before the trip started. After some last minute ice restocking we soon set off north again and just as we left the camp we saw a Spotted Hyena on his morning jog in the Nossob River valley. The only one for the trip so very happy with that. 

Driving in the Kgalagadi is all about the valleys and driving from waterhole to waterhole. Animals congregate around them so you are most likely to see anything around the waterholes. What we found at Kwang waterhole was something truly remarkable. Have a look at this:

Nine lions leisurely laying around in the shade waiting for an opportune moment to catch something that is thirsty, or brave, enough to come and drink at the waterhole. One even got up and laid under the right rear of the Hilux and wasn’t very happy when I started the engine and gave her a face full of diesel fumes and left her in the sun as we eventually had to leave. What an incredible sighting of lions. And nine of them at such close range. Unbelievable!

Ruan made a brave call to give the keys of the Fortuner to Lindie today and later on he drove the Hilux. Myself enjoying some time admiring the scenery from the passenger side of the vehicle. Lindie meanwhile having the time of her life cruising the river valley taking videos all the time. 

We reached Union’s end by mid day and took a few photos and also read some comments in the book that is stored in a box for anyone to write whatever they want to. Lovely initiative and we left some comments in a few books over the next week. Go find them…

From here on further is the start of the Gharagab trail, so status quo resumed. The trail to Gharagab was corrugated and uneventful. A few comments on other people’s tyre pressure were made as some areas were just terrible. What were people thinking?!?  Most comments came from me!

There were patches where the scenery was great with a lot more trees than what you would normally find away from the river valleys, but it is also to be expected this far north close to the Kaa game reserve. 

Finally the corrugation ended and we reached Gharagab. A first for all but my parents. But what we found on arrival was a first for all of us…

Lions in the camp!

Seven lions were making Gharagab their own little Lost City. They made a kill the previous day and then headed to the waterhole at Gharagab to quench their thirst. Then they made chalet nr 1 their home for the morning and followed the shade all the way to 3 and 4 by the time we arrived. Bit of a problem for Ruan, as he had to stay in nr 3. Our host made a quirky joke saying he organized a welcoming party for us. Good on you!

After unpacking everything we needed for the evening while keeping an eye on the lions close by, the guests from nr 4 finally arrived. All the way from Great Britain! So, a plan had to be made as sleeping in vehicles was not really an option. On the recommendation of the host, he suggested that Ruan and them drive slowly to their chalets and blow their tooters to gently persuade the lions to move elsewhere. And it worked! Very peacefully. We watched the lions from our little veranda move closer to the waterhole and later on the big male made his appearance in the distance to join up with them at the waterhole where everyone had a good drink before they moved off. 

Gharagab is a little gem. Great yet simplistic accommodation totally off the grid and so far away from civilization. Very far from civilization…

As we watched another magical sunset and settled in for another braai under the African night sky, all was peaceful and calm while we enjoyed this incredible desolate place. 

However, there was still the matter of the missing salmon paste. The V6 Hilux started to smell like a fishing bakkie from Hentie’s bay. Lindie has a nose like a bloodhound so we decided we would track it down. Like border control sniffing dogs we both kept going from one side to the other and just as we thought we tracked it down we walked into each other at the right rear of the Hilux closest to the stairs to the parents’ chalets and then heard the sound that still haunts my dreams to this day!

Words cannot describe this feeling. At first we thought, Honey badger and backed away! But as I shone my torch below the stairway, there lay this fat puffadder. The shoemarks from both of us no more than 30cm away from it. It hissed and puffed at us to warn us. Surreal feeling hardly describes it. I mentioned how far away from civilization we are but that means medical care too. Things could have turned out into an absolute disaster!

What happened hereafter and how the snake eventually ended up away from us, will remain a mystery to those not there. Everyone, including the snake still lives to this day (unless a secretary bird got him) and no one will ever forget this night. Ever!

Gharagab totally surprised in every which way.

Day 8

We woke up relieved following the events of the previous night. Today we make our way back south again to Nossob to camp. This time round we had to hope for a decent campsite, albeit just for one night, but still. While waiting for the other’s to finish packing (Ruan), Lindie and I checked out the mini view point. I say mini because it is the deck that covers the water tanks, but what a view still!

The rest of the trail back to the main road was a stark contrast to the previous day. Roads much smoother and more dunes. Some however heavily axle twisted, but at slow speeds easily manageable and fun. We had a great morning!

We inevitably reached the main road back to Nossob and stopped at the picnic site for an early brunch, and continued on further south. Some areas still just completely blew us away. 

At Nossob, we managed to find two decent campsites with sufficient shade and not too far from the abultion blocks. It was laundry day for me and Lindie and with the dry and hot conditions, the clothes dried in record time. 

For dinner it was lamb chops and wors, but the rest of the traveling party will be on their own tonight, as Lindie and I booked a night drive. First time for me in the Kgalagadi. Should be interesting. We set off 30 mins before sunset and saw some bat eared foxes and other plains game. Later on, as we stopped to watch an owl, we heared jackal calling in a very distinct way. I remembered Thys making the same call when jackal see something very specific. So we set off and followed the calls and soon found what they were making all the fuss about…

Leopard!

Don’t think I have ever seen a leopard in all my visits to the Kgalagadi. Wow! How special is this? She walked in the river bed coming from Marie se draai waterhole and kept moving closer to the road. We had to reverse to keep up with her and soon she reached the road and walked along the road for a while before going into the river bed again. The guide suggested we go turn around at the waterhole and try and find her again. When we got back to the spot we last saw her, she was gone, so we headed a little further to where we last saw springbuck nearby and stopped there for a while to see if she attempts to make a kill. While waiting the guide switched of the spotlights and explained to the tourists where the southern cross is and that they will never see it in the Northern hemisphere. Just as we switched the spotlight on again, something caught my eye to the left of the light and asked to move the light to the left. Behold…

Lions! 13 of them!

Where did they come from? We passed here minutes ago. They were moving in the opposite direction along the river bed towards the leopard. It will be a bloodbath if they were to collide. The guide made a slow 7 point turn with the land cruiser game viewer and now we were following them as they made their way to the waterhole. Luckily the leopard disappeared, but a bat eared fox wasn’t so lucky. Some of the lions also started walking in the road behind us. It is a scary feeling watching them follow so close by. They soon reached the waterhole to quench their thirst and we sat with them for as long as we could, but it was getting late and we still had a bit to drive back to camp. Incredible evening! So glad we decided to do the night drive. 

Back at camp we enjoyed a late dinner and sat around the fire for a while reminiscing the evening and the trip thus far. We are incredibly fortunate just to be here, let alone all the amazing sightings we have had. 

Keep reading, it gets even better…

Day 9

Another slow morning breaking up camp before we move to our next destination. Another highlight of the trip, Bitterpan. Luckily they allow check in earlier than 14:00, so we set off at 10:00 to reach Bitterpan by 12:00 and make lunch. In my Surprise Kgalagadi in May trip, I did this route and had the time of my life, so today should be another spectacular day in Africa. Albeit a scorcher! The hottest day of the trip. 

Magic happens when you pass through this gate!

Unfortunately the trail to Bitterpan was in a much worse condition than previously. Again, people with incorrect tyre pressures just completely ruined the trail. We did see some Ludwig’s Bustard which was very cool. Lifer for me. 

We arrived around mid day at Bitterpan, excitement running high. But, with the camp facing west, we had no option but to seek shelter behind the units. The temperature gauges were reading 45 degrees in the shade. In the sun it must have been in the 50s. Good thing though for the solar panels to keep the batteries charged. The fridges were working incredibly hard to keep everything cold and frozen. 

The sun finally started to set and the blistering heat subsided just enough to sit around the fireplace to enjoy the sunset. And what a sunset you get at Bitterpan!

For dinner, fillet steak steak with mushroom sauce, Ruan’s favorite. Bitterpan has to be one of the most amazing places to visit. So secluded, very special. Our fellow visitors joined us around the campfire and went to bed early. We on the other hand made the most of the spectacular evening watching the waterhole full of activity. The Spotted Eagle Owls were most entertaining walking around hunting for food. 

There was an abundance of jackals around and we often shined the flashlight to check for anything approaching the waterhole. What happened around 22:00 simply blew us away. 

I shined the flashlight and noticed eyes in the distance. I could make out the shape of a large cat approaching. At first I thought female lion. But then realized this is even more special than that…

Cheetah! Big male cheetah!

He nonchalantly approached the waterhole and settled in for a long late evening thirst quencher. How lucky are we? This place just never ceases to amaze. Unfortunately no photos were taken as the light wasn’t sufficient, and my phone died earlier. Still, majestic sighting. 

Day 10

Lindie thoroughly enjoyed Bitterpan and was up at the crack of dawn. She made herself a coffee and got the binoculars out and sat on the deck of our unit drinking in the amazing scenery. 

Then all of a sudden, just before 7:00, she noticed movement to the right. She looked through the binoculars and, wow!

Brown Hyena!

She jumped for joy and woke me to come have a look. No further sleep for me. It walked past our unit all the way to the waterhole, often stopping and checking, sniffing, turning around and back again. We had all the time in the world to admire this skittish nocturnal animal. Stunning!

We slowly started to pack the cars again while mother dearest made us a delicious breakfast. We were just about ready to sit down for a feast when all of a sudden the shrill voice of Lindie got our prompt attention.

Black maned lion!

He came up to the waterhole to drink as we sat close by admiring his beauty. He then walked past our unit to rest in the shade, only to return 30 mimutes later to drink again. 

I told you it gets better…

Bitterpan truly amazed us. We felt so privileged as we left, yet sad. Who knows when we will be able to return to this incredible place. 

On we pressed on the trail. Luckily, similar to Gharagab, the second day’s trail is in a much better condition and we thoroughly enjoyed the drive to Mata Mata.

At Mata Mata we had a few options for a decent campsite. We really took our time in deciding where to make camp for the next three nights. The sun being the determining factor. After about the fourth stand we inspected, I noticed people leaving a lovely site. I approached their neighbors and asked if they knew if they were coming back, only to learn that they were day visitors. So we moved in to what will be, in my opinion, the best two stands in Mata Mata. And when I think back to it, if we had made camp elsewhere we would have missed out on this. Day visitors are not allowed in the campsite, let alone on campsites. Rule nr 1!

With both the gazebo and the awning up, we had ample shade the entire day, which was critical considering the heat. 

Making camp is hard work…

We had an amazing view over the veld watching more spectacular sunsets with a lot of privacy. 

Bliss.

The wind was gusty and Ruan luckily was able strategically park his car to block out the worst. The wind however blew in the right direction to hopefully bring some rain. But sadly we only experienced some lightning and thunder on the last evening. I played a bit with the iPhone 13 Pro’s night time photography capabilities. 

Day 11 and 12

The plan was always to enjoy Mata Mata camp and get some well deserved rest. Lazy hardly describes us during this time. We made great food, including an amazing potjie. Slept whenever we wanted. And swam, a lot. Temperatures still sky high. 

The Suricates provided good entertainment. 

Rainstorm in the distance.

More amazing sunsets.





It was an incredible stay at Mata Mata, a camp I haven’t really spent time at. We will undoubtedly be back again one day. 

Day 13
Our trip is nearing its end, unfortunately. But another highlight and a great send off still awaits us. Today we go to another camp we haven’t stayed at before, apart from the parents, Kalahari Tented Camp for our final night in the park. We could only check in at 14:00, so we took a leisurely drive South to a picnic site before heading back to camp. 

The parents didn’t go all the way to the picnic site and headed back to camp sooner. We arrived and checked in, Kalahari Tented Camp is stunning. 

Spacious accommodation built on a sand dune overlooking a waterhole where plenty of jackal were flourishing. And off course, we had to go for a swim. 

Lovely pool and an excellent design with the tree in the deck for ample shade. 

We enjoyed our final braai in the park with some sirloin steaks and chicken wings, one of my favorites. The jackals were like dogs coming up to the unit hoping for some food. Not from this group!

Lindie, Ruan and I sat in darkness looking at the night sky enjoying the last little bit we could. It’s been an incredible two weeks inside one of the most spectacular Parks the world has to offer. 

Tomorrow we start the journey home. 

Day 14
It’s an early morning for us as we have a long drive ahead of us. Destination, Red Sands Lodge near Kuruman. But first, some more exploring to do. The sunrise on this day was simply fantastic. 

It wasn’t long after driving one of the loops that we found more lions. So close and in the road once again. And a little cub too. 













We lost count of the number of lions we saw, some big prides too with 7, 9 and 13 in some sightings. Later on we saw another male lion walking up the Auob river valley. We saw all the big cats and hyenas this park has to offer. Really special and memorable experience. 

Our final stop before exiting the Park at Twee Rivieren was Auchterlonie picnic site and museum. It was very interesting to see how the people survived and lived in this harsh environment so many years ago. On the 4x4 trail, Thys told us his older brother was born in this little house. 

Back on the open roads again and we stopped in Upington at the Oranjerivier Cellars for some refreshments and gifts. The final stretch to Red Sands had a bit of rain before finally arriving late afternoon. Red Sands has fantastic accommodation if you are traveling to the Park from Gauteng for a stop over. 

Day 15

The last stretch. Included in our accommodation at Red Sands Lodge was a lovely buffet breakfast. A stylish way to end our trip. The N14 all the way back was uneventful but still a pleasure to drive. The Northern Cape province has really crept deep in our hearts.

Often when driving home on the last day, one tends to look back to where you have been and what you experienced. For me, this has to be one of the most amazing trips that we have ever done. The places we have seen, the experiences we have had. The memories that we have made. It’s incredible. South Africa has it’s problems, but boy is it a beautiful country. Thank you SANParks for this amazing time that we could share in the Park. 

Thank you to those who shared this trip with us, we are truly grateful. And to my loving fiancée, you are simply the best. More amazing memories together…

Until next time, and as always, may the roads lead you to where the wild things are. And life is just beautiful…