Surprise Kgalagadi in May

Itinerary 

Kuruman 15-16 May

Bitterpan Wilderness Camp17 May

Twee Rivieren Camp 18 May

Home 19 May

I have been asked to attend a work function in Kathu for a client. Long drive to get there and seeing that I am halfway to the Kalahari, a quick plan had to be made to make the most of this trip. Not always easy to get the right accommodation on such short notice but I managed to come up with a real adventure. This will require a lot of driving on many gravel and sand roads, but I am looking forward to covering most of the Kgalagadi in one weekend. 

Stay tuned for more information as I embark on another adventure in Africa...

 

Day 1

 

It is never fun driving in Gauteng. No matter what time of the day. After two important meetings, it was great to hit the road and I could not wait to be out of this place. 

After 7 hours’ drive and only one stop for diesel, it was very pleasing to arrive at Red Sands Lodge just as the sun was setting. I have an incredible view over a valley and the only thing to do after settling in, was crack a cold one and enjoy this magnificent view. 

There is nothing more beautiful than the sun setting over the Kalahari. 

Tomorrow is all work and no fun. But Friday holds new challenges. Looking forward to getting back to the Kgalagadi, hope to see some black maned lions, if I’m lucky. 

 

 

Day 2

 

Work day! Nevertheless, it was a great day. Being in the health and safety industry does not always come with the satisfaction that we got from today. The staff of the client had an amazing time and it was great to be a part of it all. However, this is a travel blog, so enough shop talk. 

We arrived back at Red Sands Lodge just before sunset and enjoyed another breath-taking sunset from the deck. Then went for dinner with the colleagues whom I do not see often but had to get to bed early. Tomorrow is going to be a long day...

 

Day 3

Never before have I attempted a journey like what I am trying to do today. Only about 600km but most of it gravel and sand. I need to get from Red Sands Lodge to Bitterpan Wilderness Camp in one day. Many people have advised against it, said I will not make it. 

Isn’t that what adventure is all about…? 

I was awake at 1:57, and could not sleep again. Maybe it was the fear of oversleeping, or maybe it was the excitement of going back to Kgalagadi. The latter sounds better. Let’s go with that. Therefore, instead of leaving at 5am as planned, I left at 4am. 

The roads were busy, but one should not expect less with all the mines around. Many company shuttles driving to fetch employees for their next shifts. The moon however was still in all its glory, almost full moon. Really enjoyed driving at this time of day and having this as my beacon west. 

As I turned left on the R31, the road narrowed with no shoulder and dense bush along the road. The traffic also subdued significantly, barring one cattle truck. The long and treacherous gravel track from before Van Zylsrus to Askham awaited me. As I got there I thought maybe let me see if I can get to Van Zylsrus at least with the tyre pressure I ran, but didn’t make it 500m on the gravel, so I had to stop. 

What was interesting was the fluctuation in temperatures along the road, anything between 15 and 7 degrees. Obviously, when it was time to deflate the tyres, it was 9 degrees, with cold air blowing over my hand. 

The initial plan was always to be at Twee Rivieren at 10am latest in order to reach Bitterpan by 5pm latest. So having left at 4am put me in a good position to make sure I don’t get told I won’t get to Bitterpan. And so the gravel road continues... 22kms to reach Van Zylsrus and then another 147km to Askham. This is going to be tough. I tried to average 80km/h but there were so many dips that threw the Hilux and then also corrugation that felt like it will throw you in a ditch. 

I will say this. If I ever have to end up next to the side of the road, in a ditch, this must be the place!

After what felt like forever, I made it to Askham and was pleasantly surprised to find a garage with cheap diesel and I could re inflate the tyres without my compressor.

 

I arrived at Twee Rivieren just before 10am and wanted to get all the formalities out of the way as soon as possible. Also stopped at the shop for wood and treated myself to a very nice new map. Stopped at the garage again and deflated the tyres once more, and set off on an amazing journey 

When I checked in at Twee Rivieren gate the staff member said that time is limited to reach Bitterpan. They recommend you spend the night before at Nossob. Kuruman is some distance away and probably not advisable. Therefore, my next milestone was to reach Nossob by 2pm. The drive was beautiful seeing plenty gemsbok and springbok along the Nossob river. No lions though. The picnic sites along the way is great to stop and take a break, have a snack and then push on again. Finally made it to Nossob just after 2pm and completed the final formalities of the day.

On previous trips I always watched people, with great envy, go through those special gates, going to special places. 

This time, it was my turn!

And boy was I in for a surprise. Normally I would read up on all the trips I do and roads I take, but with this trip being planned on short notice, I didn’t know what to expect from the Bitterpan trail. Off I went...

 

The trail started off rather easy but with breath-taking views. The dunes were similar to the trail between Nossob and Bossobogolo and not much of a challenge. Until I arrived at this dune. It was the first tough challenge mainly due to loose sand and big bog holes from previous cars. I enjoyed it so much that I reversed back down after the first successful attempt and had to go again to film it. 

The day just got better and better. Every time you summit a dune, you are treated to a new stunning landscape. Like an artist taking a blank canvas and completing a masterpiece every time. 

 

After three more hours of great driving through this incredible terrain, I finally arrived at Bitterpan. What an unbelievable place! Totally worth the 13 hours to get here!

Words cannot describe this place... I will let the photos do the talking for me...

One of the things I enjoy the most about solo traveling is meeting new people. And at a place like this it lends itself to do exactly that. There is one staff member living onsite who welcomed me and showed me my room and I quickly met the other two couples staying there. One of them suggested we all braai together at the communal area. 

Great idea! Must admit that they were far superior travellers than me and I enjoyed a great evening listening to their stories about their travels into Africa. Made me want to go further North...

 

 

Day 4

 

Just as I thought things could not get any better, it did. The first day is 52km of sand and dune driving to get to Bitterpan, with the second day being 70km to get to the Mata-Mata road. 

Without a doubt, the second day is so much more fun. So many long challenging dunes of which some took me five attempts to get over. In all my life and trips that I have done, I have not had so much fun than on this day. I did not take many pictures but instead filmed as much as I could with the phone.

Must admit that I missed my old man on this trail. I know he would have enjoyed it just as much and I know how much he loves this place. 

The trail took about 3 hours to complete and I passed a tractor on the way pulling tyres to pave a new road. Most of that section was less bumpy and just a pleasure to drive. 

For a second I thought of myself as the first person driving this trail. 

Reinhardt the trailblazer...

Sounds good. Then the second passed...

Have not been to Mata-Mata since 2000, so it was great to be back and see the camp after the upgrades they made. Really like the campsite and will say that I prefer it to Nossob.

The drive down to Twee Rivieren was about 120km and I took it as easy as I wanted too. The scenery just never stops to amaze you. Truly, an amazing place and I felt privileged just to be here.

While sitting around the campfire and enjoying another stunning sunset, I overheard my neighbours, who was from Nelspruit, talking about people that I have heard of. Therefore, I did what I like to do, went, and introduced myself. Imagine my surprise when they said they knew my grandparents. To hear that my grandfather, Koos Grobler, was a legend in the Laeveld made me so proud. 

Today was going to be a tough and probably uneventful day. 932km to drive on my own. After another 11 hours and only three stops, I safely arrived home.

Another incredible, epic journey through one of the most beautiful places in Africa has come to an end.

I cannot wait for the next one...

May the roads take you where the wild things are and life is just beautiful...